Request for Bribe from Cops in India
How many of you have been asked for a bribe? By a police officer? Haha! If you live in a Western country, it’s highly unlikely you had the pleasure of such an experience.
Being asked for a bribe in India is common. This is, many times, the only way things get done! Unfortunately! Very unfortunately! Having a police officer who is not a traffic cop ask for money creates an interesting situation. On the one hand, because it doesn’t have to do with a traffic violation, let’s say the cop is someone who can play an influential role on the issue at hand. Maybe you should pay him. On the other hand, you think a cop should do his job and that’s what he’s being paid for. Why is the idiot asking you for money to do what he’s supposed to do anyway?
Driving Without a Horn
I have lived and regularly driven in Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Boston. These cities are known for their horrendous driving culture. New York, a placewhere I have not lived but have frequented in my Honda, is similarly nutty with all the cabs and one-way roads.
Still, I can tell you from experience that all of that is nothing compared to driving in India. And even worse so, New Delhi! There is crazy road rage. Don’t cut someone off or you could very well have them jump ahead of you, slow down, stop the car, get out of it, and come and argue with you. Or fight you. Being right in the middle of the highway, the fast lane of the highway for that matter, won’t stop them. (Okay, there is no way there can be a fast lane, but let’s stick with the technical definition on this one, shall we?). They may even pull out a gun if you happen to be in Gurgaon or Noida. (Yah, alright, it’s not just in Gurgaon or Noida. It happens in Delhi, Uttar Pradesh, and pretty much everywhere else. I think it’s much more prominent in the north, though).

Road rage is the element most foreigners don’t know about when they think of Indian driving. Thoughts of buffalos and cows on the streets and highways are more common. Images of bicycles, rickshaws, bullock carts, and tractors on the same road as lorries (aka semi’s in the West), four wheel drives, and three wheel scooters are probably right behind. These are, of course, very true and every day scenarios. There’s no way around it really.
The unofficial and unwritten rule of Indian driving is that the bigger you are, the more you control the traffic (makes sense!) and the more you are at fault if anything goes wrong regardless of who really is at fault (idiotic at first glance but accurate in the socialist India). The exception to this are the buses. They’re always at fault yet never at fault. If they hit you, you just have to accept it was your mistake for being stupid enough to let them.
Even then, you couldn’t make it through a day of driving by following this or any other rule. You need help! And you get it from a small device that makes all this chaos somewhat manageable to you, the driver, and that’s your car’s horn!
The horn to Indian driving is like the periscope to the submarine. Lose it or it goes caput and only God can save you from disaster! Or, so I thought! You see, the horn on my car went caput this morning. I was going down a busy road (so they’re all fully occupied at most times) and the horn stopped honking. The first few minutes were a bit nerve wracking. How the heck was I going to get through the day of Delhi roads without the damn thing? I didn’t think it could be done. It’s not that I honk all the time. I try not to whenever possible. Now I had no choice. Turns out, it wasn’t so hard after all. I noticed that I couldn’t get the slow motorcycle in front of me to move out of the way. But it was okay! I just had to wait until the road cleared a little bit. I had to be … wait for it, wait for it … patient! I found myself driving a little slower. I also found myself just a bit less stressed out (not much, just a little).
The Delhi government is trying to get people to use the horn less. There’s so much noise pollution in the city, it’s a needed step. Not everyone follows this non-mandate, of course. There’s no point in regulating for it. It’s somewhat impractical based on road conditions. More so, people just won’t follow it. Maybe someone at the chief minister’s office will read this post and have an aha moment. I’m telling you the best thing to do - disable all the horns of all the vehicles!
Buying and Selling Land in India
Unless you’ve been living under a rock for the past 15 years, you know that India (along with China, Brazil, and Russia among others) has leaped frogged it’s way into the mainstream of economic conversations. The massive middle class, which is very young, spends a lot of money. It’s revving the engine. Foreign investors, largely by the way of big institutional players and to a lesser degree individual NRIs, have had a significant affect on GDP growth rates as well. India is the place to be, so they say (a statement which I have resoundly concluded over two years is much more hype than reality).
Let’s talk about buying and selling land where all kinds of good things are happening. Before I got knee-deep into it the last two years here, my concept of land was that it is cheaper than the value of the constructed home and it is relatively painless to buy and sell. Really, anyone who has money or can finance the investment, can own it.
This is how it is in the States. I have learnt that is not nearly the case in India. You see, in Hindustan, there are many types of land and transacting is a major pain in the ass. Land can be plain-ol-land, one which anyone can buy or sell as they please. In New Delhi, as I presume is the case throughout other cities in India, there are acres and acres for government use. Lutyens Delhi is where a lot of government offices are located. Both plain-ol-land and government use is common in developed countries.
Then there is what is called agricultural land. This is where farmers grow the crops that feed the nation. As India grows, much of agricultural land surrounding major metros is being bought for private use. Real estate companies build houses or apartments. They do commercial development as well. Actually, it’s not just near major metros. It is happening in small towns that were formerly villages as well. The drivers are migration of huge amounts of people over a decade or two from the villages to the metros, increased wealth of the rich and buying power of the middle class, and a still-infant movement towards independent families. This meant cities had to spread out as more housing was required (vertical development has only happened in ernest in Mumbai and some smaller, growing cities).
All this is fine and hunky dory. I would suspect this is how all developed countries also grew. The thing, though, with agricultural land in India is that it can be authorized or unauthorized. That is, private developers or investors bought many acres from farmers and built on it. But the land’s status still may not have changed as far as the government is concerned. If it is still unauthorized, then legally it’s still farm land where buildings cannot come up. Forget the fact that huge colonies have been built this way, literally thousands and thousands of acres nationwide, all that land is illegal for anything but farming.
With agricultural land, the transaction is managed by village-based legal record-keeping mechanisms. If the land is unauthorized, also known as unregularized, then it gets very complicated. Even I don’t understand all of it, but I am learning. If the land is unregularized, then you are taking a risk by buying it. The government can legally demolish a house you build. In fact, Delhi had a major demolition drive over the last few years to get rid of this type of construction but only in some specific areas and under some specific criteria. Not all unauthorized construction was aimed for demolition (impossible to do politically and impractical to do logistically).
You buy it still because the reality is that after years and years and bunch of buildings being made, the government has no recourse but to “regularize” the land. This means they legalize it and it is no longer considered agricultural. You built on it while it was illegal and you and your hundreds of thousands of fellow colony dwellers forced the government to take this step. After all, you are demanding regularization. The government might as well get taxes on all this property too! Regularization also means, you can get government facilities like water, electricity, sewage, mail, etc. Until then, these were most likely “stolen” by being tapped into or separate arrangements were made to build pipes and generators (which has a whole host of issues that come with it).
Now, when it comes to buying and selling agricultural land, you have to be very careful. You would think that when a land is bought, there are clear boundaries demarcated. You know where your property starts and ends. That is just a no-brainer to this 1.5 Generation Indian. And that does happen probably most of the time. There are instances, though, when something very strange happens. Hundreds of acres get developed into a colony. Rather than buying a specific plot, when people buy land, they buy a percentage of the colony. They then take a piece of land equivalent to that percentage and claim that plot as theirs. And they build on it! How about that for clear titles?!
Of course, not every piece of that colony is built out. People may have bought space but not constructed. That is when it gets really hairy. If you have not constructed a house, then you hopefully constructed some kind of boundary. Usually, it’s a wall a few feet high. If you didn’t do that, then anyone who owns any percentage of a specific part of that colony may come and claim it.
Let me give an example. Say there is a colony of 100 acres. You bought 5 percent, i.e., 5 acres. You didn’t build a farmhouse. You just let the land sit. You didn’t construct the boundary wall either. Someone else who owns 4% of the 100 acres now comes and says that your land, the 5 acres you bought and the plot you claimed, is really theirs. They own a part of the colony too after all, right? If they claimed the same land you did and you stopped paying attention, what happens then? Ah, the fun! You now own disputed land because someone is claiming the same property plot you are. There are absolutely no records made during the transaction saying that that specific plot, located at such and such a spot, is the one you bought. You just bought 5% of the 100 acres! And you just claimed the 5 acres that you saw no one else had claimed yet!
If this manner of owning land and demarcations isn’t enough to contribute to chaos, India’s use of black and white money adds a lot of masala to any transaction. White money is legal money. It’s something that can be tracked. A check or a wire would be white money. Black money is cash. You cannot readily track where cash goes. Black money has historically been used to subvert income tax payments.
Imagine what happens to the transparency and provability of a transaction in an unauthorized and illegal piece of farmland with improper demarcations and record-keeping when the buyer, the seller, and the broker are doing a large percent of the transaction with black money! You bought something and paid a shit load for it! In cash! You may or may not have gotten proper papers. You don’t have a check that was cashed or a wire that was sent across as proof of the purchase. It’s a receipe for disaster!
There’s a lot more to this than what I have described, including the way records are kept, the way land is regularized, but this is how the damn thing works with unauthorized and unregularized land sometimes! Ah, how can you not love it!
The NY Times Wedding Celebrations
I go to The New York Times’ wedding celebrations page every week. Well, I used to. I haven’t gone in a couple of months I would say. I had thought about that the other day but still didn’t make it over. The idea hit me again yesterday but I didn’t make it then either. This (early) morning, I finally did!
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/08/fashion/weddings/08VOWS.html?_r=1
I like checking out the videos but also like reading the stories. The one above is pretty cool so I have put the link for you all to check out! Hope you enjoy!
Tonight was an interesting night. I was to go to watch a play at the India Habitat Center. It was a Shakespeare play called Measure 4 Measure. My cigar friend (okay, I have no better name for her right now so this will have to do because that’s how I met her) was supposed to come down too. Except she didn’t make it!
It started at 7:30 PM and I had gotten there at 6:30. I figured I would sit and read a book in the garden outside so I got there early. I called my friend around 7pm and her phone was off. I found that to be weird and immediately thought maybe she was blowing me off. She didn’t seem like the kind of person who’d blow you off, so that was a bit weird. I thought perhaps her phone was discharged or something else happened. I texted her to let her know I was waiting outside the American Diner so she could find me.
Unfortunately, time kept on going by and she still hadn’t made it. A few additional attempts to call didn’t go through. I was in a bit of a quandry – do I go in and sit by myself? Is she really blowing me off? Around 7:40 PM I went to our seats because the show was about to start. Throughout the hour or so I was watching, I couldn’t help but think what had happened to my friend. I eventually gave up on the show and went to the American Diner, figuring I’d sit there, eat something, read my book (I just finished The Kite Runner tonight – I know, I haven’t written about this yet), and then go home.
About 30 minutes later, someone pokes me from behind and it turns out to be my cigar friend. I had thought if she was going to come down, she’d have been there by now. I had more so figured she’d call me tomorrow and tell me something had happened, either as truth or as making up an excuse. So I was a bit surprised to see her there. I was glad she made it!
Turns out she had fallen walking in the afternoon and had broken her cell phone. It’s always something like that, isn’t it? We decided to sit outside for a bit (I was at the bar in the restaurant because I was having a beer and you can’t have alcohol outside). As has been the case in the many many times I’ve talked to her on the phone, the conversation was pretty easy, simple, and comfortable. She reminds me of a couple of my friends in the States in that way. It’s not this effortless with everyone, so I’m quite liking it.
I tried calling her on the way back to make sure she made it home okay, totally dumbing the fact that her phone wasn’t working!!! I had offered to follow her home since it was 11:30 PM when we were leaving. She took me up on that until the main Ring Road but then went on her way. I had wanted to make sure she got in okay so I sent her an email asking if she made it home. That’s when the thought hit me of how easy it was talking to her. So I sent her a second message conveying that and asking for a reply (via the … to end a message). Too bad, she wasn’t online as I had thought she might be.
A bit about the India Habitat Center: it’s a major cultural hub in South Delhi. You get all kinds of plays, exhibitions, and other events happening there. There are also a couple of nice restaurants to hang out at, including the American Diner. This place is similar to the ’50s style diner with the red color seats and juke boxes (although I don’t think there were juke boxes on each table). Nice hangout.
It’s All About Dhanda
As I have talked about before, each city has its own personality. Mumbai or Bombay is associated with ”dhanda”.
What exactly does dhanda mean? Let me first define it. Dhanda means to do business. It can have a negative connotation depending on the context but generally means someone who’s really about just working. This doesn’t mean they are in business for themselves, i.e., as entrepreneurs or small business owners. It can also mean that they work for someone else but much of their time and energy goes into conducting business.
Mumbai is a city known for dhanda. I am a guy who’s also focused on dhanda. Truth be told, I am less focused on it in the last 2-3 years than I was for the decade after my father’s death. For years, circumstances had made me very business focused – or, to be even more precise, income-generating focused.
Life was serious and I was serious. Life is better now, more peaceful, more relaxed. I am making okay money, not as much as I would ideally like to plateau at, but it’s okay. I didn’t realize how much difference it made after my sister got married. Monthly costs have gone down dramatically.
I have noticed, though, that I am still anxious. It’s a constant thing with me and has been for a very long time. I have also known what it will take to remove some of that. It will get better as a couple of goals I have long-held become reality. I’ve been taking steps towards that, as I have indicated before. While the constant worry is still there, it is much better than before. Seriously better!
Stress is a part of life. There are different types of stress, of course. I feel a bit liberated in the sense that now I can start to build savings towards my own goals. I know once a couple major ones are met, my anxiousness and worry level will go down tremendously.
I’ve been all about dhanda for a long time. I even forgot what it was like to not be like that. It feels like I am finally starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Wowz!